Minutes of the October. 2, 2011 meeting
of the Michiana Bonsai Study
Present: Mary Morgan, Bruce Kennedy, Ruth Yeomans, Erik Runyon (and son, Logan),
Rose and Larry Benjamin, John Demaegd, Cat Nelson
Location: Greenleaf Living Center, Elkhart, Indiana
Snacks: John Demaegd
Program: Larry suggested that anyone interested in obtaining, framing, and hanging one of the
club's posters in their home get one at the end of the meeting. Then, these could be
turned in and a new one checked out later - much the same manner in which libraries
manage the check out of artwork. (After the meeting, Mary, Cat and Larry did so.)
Cat Nelson presented us with some valuable tips for handling our specimens this time
of the year - including preparing and storing them for the winter. Her tips included:
(1) Potted trees need to be treated as if their hardiness were two zones higher than normal.
(2) Clean up trees before storage. This includes removing dead leaves and moss as well as
loosening any wires that are getting too tight.
(3) Allow trees to stay outside long enough for them to repond to nature's signals (shortening
day length in addition to colder temperatures). Around Thanksgiving is generally about
the time to store them for winter. (However, it varies - at least two frosts are needed.)
(4) Water less during storage - once or twice a month. In an inclosed area, only spray.
(5) Watch for insects or fungus. Treat before bringing them in, accordingly.
(6) There are three main alternative means of winter storage for non-tropicals:
(a) Wrap tree in burlap & bury - many disadvantages, eg., damage from mice & rabbits.
(b) Store in cold garage. Temp. needs to be 32°F down to the low 20's. (It was suggested
that this be monitored with a min/max remote thermometer.)
(c) Root cellar or "pit". (Again, it was suggested that this be monitored with a min/max
remote thermometer.) Watch the humidity here. (Cheryl uses fans to insure airflow.)
(7) Tropicals need less water and no fertilizer in winter. Lighting is the biggest consideration.
Supplementary lighting is needed even if placed in a window. The lights need to be very
close to the plants since light intensity falls off 50% each six inches! Fluorescent lights are
the best in most situations. The main thing to check is their lumens: quantity is more
important than quality (eg., "gro-lights"). Systemic pesticides best if insects a problem.
(8) Remember, winter is a good time to wire, plan and find the pot for your specimen.